Vol.1-1 |
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斜面上のStokes波の一理論
A Stokes Wave Theory Applied to Waves on a Slope |
石田 啓* ・ 山口 登*
Hajime ISHIDA* and Noboru YAMAGUCHI* |
Abstract
From the view point of the disaster prevention on a beach, it is very
important to clarify the dynamics of wave deformations and successive
wave breakings because this phenomena are closely related with the occurrence
of longshore currents and the generation of breaking wave forces.
This paper theoretically deals with the wave field on a slope including
the breaker zone by means of the coordinate transformation from Cartesian
coordinate to the elliptic. As the result, a tentative solution of the
second order approximation about the wave steepness can be obtained as
well as Stokes' wave theory.
The validity of this solution can be ascertained in some extent by comparing
with the experimental data obtained by Goda et al. and Iwagaki et al.
*金沢大学工学部
Faculty of Engineering, Kanazawa University
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