| Vol.1-1 | 
         
        
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          斜面上のStokes波の一理論 
            A Stokes Wave Theory Applied to Waves on a Slope  | 
         
         
          石田 啓* ・ 山口 登* 
            Hajime ISHIDA* and Noboru YAMAGUCHI*  | 
         
       
        
      Abstract  
         From the view point of the disaster prevention on a beach, it is very 
        important to clarify the dynamics of wave deformations and successive 
        wave breakings because this phenomena are closely related with the occurrence 
        of longshore currents and the generation of breaking wave forces. 
         This paper theoretically deals with the wave field on a slope including 
        the breaker zone by means of the coordinate transformation from Cartesian 
        coordinate to the elliptic. As the result, a tentative solution of the 
        second order approximation about the wave steepness can be obtained as 
        well as Stokes' wave theory. 
         The validity of this solution can be ascertained in some extent by comparing 
        with the experimental data obtained by Goda et al. and Iwagaki et al. 
       
       *金沢大学工学部 
        Faculty of Engineering, Kanazawa University 
        
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