Vol.7-2 |
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任意汀線形状海岸を対象としたクノイド波理論に基づく海浜流の数値モデル
A Numerical Model of Nearshore Currents Based on a Cnoidal Wave Theory
Applicable to Coastal Areas with a Complicated Shoreline |
山口 正隆* ・ 川原 博満** ・ 戸塚 耕造***
Masataka YAMAGUCHI*, Hiromitsu KAWAHARA** and Kohzoh TOTSUKA*** |
Abstract
In this paper, the authors's numrical model or nearshore currents using
a cnoidal wave theory for the estimation of wave characteristics is extended
to be applicable to coastal areas with a complicated shoreline. For this
purpose, wave transformation is computed by making use of a characteristic
method following the wave rays instead of the finite difference scheme
used in the previous model. First, wave height variation and longshore
current profile on a uniformly sloping beach computed by both the models
are shown to be in good agreement. Next, the model is applied to the nearshore
current computation on model topographies with a complicated shoreline
such as a semi-circular bay, convex cape and arbitrarily-curved bay. The
comparison of the resulting nearshore current patterns with those of the
authors's model using the small amplitude wave theory reveals their gross
similarity and a slight difference concerning the positions of breaker
line and circulation cell center, and meandering intensity or longshore
currents.
【キーワード】:海岸災害, 海浜流モデル, クノイド波, 任意汀線地形
*愛媛大学工学部海洋工学科
Department of Ocean Engineedng, Faculty of Engineering Ehime Univ.
**富士通エフ・アイ・ピー株式会社
Fujitsu F.I.P.Inc.
***愛媛大学大学院工学研究科
Craduate Course of Ocean Engineering, Ehime Univ.
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